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May 13, 2008

Memories from Chile: Black Rain

As I walked to the mailbox last week I saw what appeared to be some kind of ant mosh-pit on our front porch. Hundreds of ants—maybe thousands?—we’re behaving like someone had dumped a truckload of Pixie sticks on the concrete. The sight whisked me back to Chile, to my first year living there when I had to contend with the Summer of Ants.

I actually wrote about it here at the time, but I can’t be sure that I conveyed the intense rage the situation provoked. Around February, probably the hottest month of the Chilean summer, there ceased to be any distinction between ants outside and ants inside. Our floors were covered with ants and there was no obvious solution. If ants are streaming into your house, forming a black river across your floor, or counter, or whatever, then your task is simple: find what’s at the end of the ant stream, probably an open jar of Smuckers or a torn bag of sugar, remove it, and destroy the ants. Our ants, however, were wandering aimlessly through the kitchen, living room, and bathroom. When the ants are aimless, that’s when you know you’re screwed. You could sweep them all up—they’d form a pile of dirt that moved—and throw them out of the house, but their cousins, or college roommates, or great-grandkids would be back half an hour later.

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March 8, 2008

Graffiti in Chile

One of my favorite parts of walking through Chilean cities was the eclectic street art and graffiti. Especially in Valparaiso and the Bellavista neighborhood of Santiago, areas brimming with color, I thought graffiti added to the streets’ quirkiness. Graffiti is often characterized by its free-form, unplanned, random expression, but many of the examples I saw were a kind of internal contradiction: stenciled graffiti—spray paint confined by plastic templates.

Some of the specimins I found were so entirely whimsical or strange that it was hard not to be charmed by them. Here are three of my favorites:

Climbing and tight-rope walking

Men on pipes and tightropes This piece has probably the best placement of any I’ve seen.

An international outlaw.

An international outlaw. So, uh, where is he?

I love umbrellas.

I love you umbrellas. I’m not sure why I like this one so much, but there’s something charming about the non sequitur replacement of “you” with a picture of an umbrella.

You can check out the rest of the graffiti photos I took over at Flickr (or in a slideshow!) Much of the graffiti expresses political messages, some of which may be particularly offensive to Americans. But I figure that if you’re not offended or shocked on a regular basis, then you’re living an insular life and you don’t really know what people around the world think. That said, take these photos with a grain of salt.

February 10, 2008

So much stuff

When I left America in 2005 to work in Chile I had two suitcases to hold everything I wanted to bring with me for a two years. It didn’t seem like much space. Even though I used every permitted ounce—my checked baggage was 100 pounds, on the nose—I was struck by how little fit in my bags. I wrote a manifest that included, among other things:

  • 6 T-shirts
  • 2 polo shirts
  • 2 pairs of jeans
  • 5 sweaters
  • 5 pairs of shoes: Chaco sandals, sneakers, black dress shoes, slippers, and hiking boots
  • 2 belts
  • 1 raincoat

At the time having eight shirts seemed very few. After awhile, though, I forgot that eight wasn’t very many; I just wore whatever I found in the closet that was (mostly) clean. Some way into this transformation my friend Kate wrote once to ask, “Do you have any other shirts besides that red one?” Well, yeah, I said defensively. Though when I looked at the photos I shared online, I can see how she might have thought that.

Red Shirt 1 Red Shirt 3 Red Shirt 5
Red Shirt 4 Red Shirt 2 Red Shirt 6
Red Shirt 7 Red Shirt 12 Red Shirt 9
Red Shirt 8 Red Shirt 13 Red Shirt 10

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December 18, 2007

Chile's Greatest Hits

  1. Vuelvo para Vivir by Illapu
  2. Mira Niñita by Los Jaivas
  3. El Aparecido by Inti-Illimani
  4. La Muralla by Quilapayún
  5. Plegaria a un Labrador by Victor Jara
  6. Lejos del Amor by Illapu
  7. Alzando el Vuelo by Sol y Lluvia
  8. Rin de Angelito by Violeta Parra
  9. Todos Juntos by Los Jaivas
  10. Candombe para José by Illapu
  11. Adios General by Sol y Lluvia
  12. Te Recuerdo Amanda by Victor Jara
  13. El Aguaja by Arak Pacha
  14. Samba Landó by Inti-Illimani
  15. Gracias a la Vida by Violeta Parra
  16. All Songs

Last year Tom and I talked about making a compilation of the best Chilean folklore songs from our favorite groups, like Illapu, Inti-Illimani, and Los Jaivas. I never progressed much beyond talking, but Tom reviewed song after song to assembled the list and sent me a copy. A few of my faves didn’t make the cut, but there’s always the possibility of a volume two.

Much of Chilean folk music sprung from the Nueva Canción movement, a creation native to South America. It was the fusion of numerous influences—Andean, Cuban, Spanish, African, the Chilean cueca—in both style and instrumentation. While guitars are omnipresent in the folklore, it’s also common for musicians to use typical Andean instruments like the charango, which looks like a tiny guitar, or zampoña and quena flutes. A lot the songs produced in the Nueva Canción style can be described as protest songs—some more explicit than others—against foreign intervention, dictatorships, and oppression. One of the key figures in the movement, Chilean singer Victor Jara, was tortured and assassinated in the aftermath of the September 11 coup in Chile. His death, though tragic, reaffirms both the power of his songs, and music’s power in general to motivate people.

I don’t know the story behind all of these songs, but I asked around and did some research. Here’s a little of what I do know about each one. I also cut 30-second samples that you can listen to. I tried to include a representative portion in the samples of each song, so they hopefully offer you a feel for the whole piece. Where possible I also have links to purchase the songs at the iTunes Store. Unfortunately, not all of the artists are available there. Chilean folk music hasn’t made it big yet online. I did note that you can watch performances of nearly all these songs on YouTube. Without further ado…

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December 10, 2007

Where to from here?

One week in Chile I was checking my site traffic logs and I noticed a strange surge in visitors. I couldn’t figure out the cause, so I did some poking around Google. After noticing some of the common search terms leading people here, I did a search for “Chile blog” and I was rather surprised to see the following results page:

Ryan's Blog number one in Google search for 'Chile blog'

I never set out to be a blog about Chile—in fact I started blogging years before I went to South America—so it was rather novel to find myself at the top of Google’s search rankings. However it happened, I don’t expect to occupy the spot for much longer, especially now that I’m not even living in the country. I have a few article ideas left that I ran out of time to develop in Chile; those will make an appearance here in the next few weeks. Apart from that, my writing affair with my one-time, long, thin home is over.

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November 21, 2007

818

818 days in South America

There used to be a little counter on this site that kept track of the days I’d been gone. It has stopped at 818 days because after more than two years outside the U.S., I finally made my way home yesterday. Roy and I finished our detour through Peru and Bolivia and flew home from Lima. It’s a little surreal to be back in America after so much time away. A few observations:

I’m not tall anymore. While I was living in Bolivia and Chile, people always commented on how tall I am. If I was on the subway, I could look around and usually I was the tallest person in the area. I certainly enjoyed the ride while it lasted because now that I’m back in the U.S., I’m an average Joe again.

It’s comforting to see different ethnic groups again. In Bolivia, for example, black people are very uncommon. So uncommon that, should you see one, Bolivians say you should pinch him or her for good luck. When I arrived in Miami I saw faces of all different colors. The man sitting across from me at the gate had a Haitian passport in his shirt pocket. I heard several languages that I don’t know. I saw a couple who had just arrived from Singapore. I can’t say exactly why, but it made me feel good to be back in America and see the tremendous diversity of people who make their home here.

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October 28, 2007

The big goodbyes

Last week I had a goodbye barbecue on Monday. On Tuesday my co-workers at Fundación Contigo threw a little surprise party at the end of the day. Wednesday the Holy Cross priests and brothers invited us to a lunch at their house. Thursday I rested, but Friday I went to a farewell Mass for Roy at Saint George. Saturday we said goodbye ourselves with a final celebration in our house. That left us with this week for more individual goodbyes, of which there have been plenty. In a way it’s a kind of final reminder of Chilean culture. People become fond of others very quickly here, and goodbyes can be extensive.

Since the Associate program is coming to the end of the current chapter, our goodbyes also involved a somewhat different twist. Instead of just leaving our house, we had to close it. The house at 1309 Ictinos has been home to associates for over a decade, and its a meaningful place for many members of the community as well. One woman commented that she had a retreat there, another said that the party for her grandaughter’s baptism was held there, and countless others passed by to hang out over the years.

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October 10, 2007

The socks on my feet

When I was packing to leave home I put two unopened 8-packs of Hanes socks in my suitcase. I planned on rationing them out over the years. That turned out to be a stroke of genius because after several dozen handwashings socks start to feel less like cotton and more like paper towels. Whenever I inaugurated a new pair my feet threw a little party. This past weekend I put on the last new pair. Other things are running out as well. I lost my last Bic pen a couple months ago. I am writing this with my last mechanical pencil. I have just one Gillette cartridge left. All of these serve to underscore a message that lingers in the back of my mind. It’s time to go home.

Of course I’m not going home because I ran out of socks. I could buy more of almost everything I need—pens, pencils, razors—with one important exception: I am running out of time. When I started with Holy Cross Associates in August 2005, my end date seemed an eternity away. I’m used to thinking of the finish as so distant that it’s a shock to have it suddenly waiting on my doorstep.

In my two-and-a-half years in South America I’ve seen things hidden from many visitors; I’ve not just been to attractions, I’ve been through experiences. I did my shopping at the feria, I went to community celebrations, I ate countless onces in friends’ houses. I also did things that most visitors wouldn’t want to. I washed my clothes by hand, I lived through the campo winter without heating, I lived in places where gringos don’t normally live. Though the experience carried more challenges than I imagined, I can only describe it as rich, and I can describe Chile as a home.

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September 25, 2007

Scenes from Sept. 18

Chilean cowboys on horseback
Chilean cowboys, called huasos, ride on horseback carrying the Chilean flag, which bears a striking resemblance to the Texas flag.

The signs went up in the Lider supermarket: The 18th is here at last! That same day I saw a folklore band in traditional huaso dress singing on a street corner downtown. Kites had already started to appear in the skies. The Chilean national holiday centered on September 18 was in the air. The only peculiar detail was the date. It was August 18, not September.

Call it holiday creep. Chile’s national celebration, known simply as the Dieciocho, had slipped into August, much like Christmas into the pre-Thanksgiving slot. Perhaps the creep could be attributed to this year’s XXL rendition. Since Sept. 18 falls on a Tuesday, the government passed a resolution making Monday a holiday as well. Sept. 19 is, naturally, a day off as well, so many schools and workers decided that it wasn’t worth the hassle of working Thursday or Friday either. That’s the kind of thinking that got a holiday turned into a week of holidays. The Fourth of July has a lot to learn.

During the Dieciocho days there is a cultural explosion where you can’t turn around without encountering one of the typical elements of Chilean culture. There are cueca dances, flying kites, cowboys in costume, chicha, rodeos, giant barbeques, fireworks, parades, and empanadas. I tried to make the most of what will most likely be my last Dieciocho in Chile. Here are a few snapshots from my week.

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September 12, 2007

Chile is for lovers

Forget Virginia: Chile is for lovers. Let me break down the reasons for you.

First, the typical greeting between men and women is a kiss on the cheek, not a handshake. In this respect, the cultural transition is easier for women because they just kiss everyone. When greeting a group of people, we men have to make a dozen split-second decisions centered around the crucial question, do I kiss this person or not? It’s easy to make mistakes; I, unfortunately, would know. Anyway, think about the number of given handshakes you exchange in a given day and tally those in the kisses column.

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September 4, 2007

My guatero con uña

A guatero is a hot water bottle, and pretty much any Chilean who’s not (a) rich or (b) dead uses one in the winter. Like just about any word in Chile, guatero can be shaped to have a double meaning. Once I was talking with long-time Associate friend Elba Toledo who told me she’d let me borrow her guatero, but not her guatero con uña. Her comment was followed by boisterous laughter for those who understood (i.e. not me) and then the explanation: a guatero con uña (literally “hot water bottle with finger/toenails”) is your significant other. Ah, those clever Chileans.

Anyway, I saw this over the weekend and armed with my understanding of guatero con uña, I thought it was pretty funny.

Foot-shaped hot water bottle with toenails

This way even the relationship-challenged can sleep with their hot water bottles with toenails.

September 1, 2007

Happy New Year!

The most recognized new year celebration is January 1, but for a select group in Chile the year begins on September 1. The cold Chilean winter reaches its peak in August. It’s a dark month in nursing homes and senior citizen groups because August is when most elderly die. That played out at the nursing home I visited last year, where three of the 50 passed away during the month. It reminds you that many people are still vitally connected to the changing seasons.

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August 20, 2007

Helpin' a brother out

Car parked outside San Roque parish
These are the wheels that move the meals. Outside San Roque parish a car loaded with food for delivery waits to leave.

At least twice a week I find myself working in a pretty remarkable place: the kitchen. Specifically, the parish kitchen. That’s ground zero for Br. Donald Kutchenmeister’s meals-on-wheels-style program, known here as Comida Sobre Ruedas. Four days a week, Monday through Thursday, Donald and a group of volunteers prepare lunch for 45 people. The days are busy—we cook all morning, pack up the food, send it out to be delivered, begin preparations for the next day, and then wash all the dishes when the delivery crew returns—but they’re invariably the high points of my workweek in Chile.

A typical day begins at 9:00am as three or four volunteers scramble around the tiny kitchen to prepare the daily menu. Recipes come from sources as commonplace as Betty Crocker and The Joy of Cooking, but also from unusual tomes like The Best Iquiqueña Recipes of All Time (Iquique is a city in the far north of Chile). Donald prepares all the menus for the year during the summer, trying to balance the offerings of any given day—if the main dish is pasta, the side dish isn’t potatoes—but also to coordinate the food served on successive days. If participants eat chicken one afternoon, he tries to avoid serving a similar dish again until he has rotated through other options.

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August 19, 2007

Fortune teller handbills

I got off the subway at Plaza Egaña a couple months ago and dodged a handful of people passing out fliers. Despite my best efforts, I ended up with one. I stuffed it in my bag and didn’t look at it until weeks later. When I did it struck me as pretty funny. It’s an ad for a fortune teller/changer. Here’s the original handbill in Spanish and a translated English version that I whipped up.

Peyfon
Peyfon

Tarot card and palm reading stands are pretty common in the downtown Plaza de Armas, though I can’t say they all make such a good sales pitch.

August 14, 2007

Marks of the coup

In 1973 the Chilean military overthrew the democratically-elected president Salvador Allende in the September 11 coup. Tanks stormed the presidential palace in the heart of downtown; Air Force jets bombed the capitol. In the end, Allende was found holding a submachine gun, with which it’s generally believed that he committed suicide, but not until after he addressed the country by radio in a moving speech. “I have faith in Chile and in its destiny,” Allende said. “You must go on, safe in the knowledge that sooner rather than later, the great avenues will open once more, and free men will march along them to create a better society.” In the following days Augusto Pinochet arose as the leading member of the military junta that orchestrated the coup. He became the dictator of Chile, a position that he occupied in some form or another for more than 15 years.

Building with bullet holes in downtown Santiago

If you visit downtown Santiago, you can still see some marks of that historic day. The presidential palace, La Moneda, lies on the main downtown throughfare, La Alemeda. If you stand with the back side of La Moneda at your back, looking across La Alemeda, you will see a row of flags across the street flanked by fountains. Behind the right-most flags is a tall building. Looking at the top-left window, find the window in the fifth column from the left and the fifth row from the top. Once you’ve found that window, look to the left at the space between the windows. You’ll see five holes in the concrete: bullet pockmarks from the time of the coup.

Bullet holes

There are many scars from the era of Chile’s dictator, but most are invisible, carried by the people who lived through those years; this is one of the few you can see.

I couldn’t find any mention of this in guidebooks that I checked, but a number of Chileans assure me that it’s true. Consider it a little tourist tip.

August 11, 2007

Snow??? In Santiago??

“It hasn’t snowed like this in 30 years!” “It hasn’t stayed on the ground in Plaza Italia in 50!” Could it be? Snow in Santiago?

Snowy scene of nighttime street

In a word: yes.

August 7, 2007

My geography class

I think I could teach a geography class based solely on shocking people. I’d call my series Geo 203: It’s Not Where You Think It Is. I last took geography my freshman year of high school and I haven’t looked back since. I remember my teacher Mr. Markosian took pains to emphasize that geography isn’t just capitals and rivers, but the effects that physical features have on the development of history and culture. Those complex relationships were lost on us. Maybe should have focused on some more basic questions. Cue the slides.

Lesson 1: Where is South America?

Physical map of the U.S.

This is a map of the United States of America, plus a little of Canada at the north and Mexico to the south. If that’s not clear to you, give up now. The U.S. is part of North America. Naturally, South America is to the south. Here is the same map, but with some lines of longitude. Which of these lines run through South America?

Lesson 2: Where is the equator?

You know the equator. It’s the imaginary line that marks the middle of the world, north-south-wise. It’s the part of the world that receives the most direct sunlight. It’s encircles 24,901 miles. But where is it? Here are two maps, one of South America and the other of Africa. Identify the equator on each map.

If the result surprises you, look at a map and note the relative positions of South America and Africa. I was shocked myself when I realized the positions because it means that, at my current location in Santiago, I am farther south than all of Africa.

Lesson 3: Is what Ambrose Bierce said true?

What Ambrose Bierce said is this: “War is God’s way of teaching Americans geography.” We’ve been at war in Iraq and Afghanistan for over four years. What percentage of Americans could identify these two countries on an unlabled world map? Here’s a map for you to try. Click if you need a larger version.

I have to admit that I wasn’t able to locate either country myself when I first tried; I had to look up the answer. If you were able to do it, congrats—you did better than I did. I don’t have any numbers to back me up, but I’m pretty sure that most Americans would have some difficulty finding Iraq and Afghanistan. Perhaps a more accurate aphorism would be to say that war is God’s way of making Americans aware of other countries’ existence.

Study up for the test. Focus on the location of South America, the equator, Iraq, and Afghanistan. There will be no curve.

August 4, 2007

A roof with a view

Every time it rains in Santiago it gets cold and overcast, the streets flood, and it stays generally miserable for as long as the water falls. The reward is the clear, smog-free view of the snow-covered Andes when the clouds clear. I’ve tried to take some pictures of the mountains, but their majesty is often overshadowed by traffic, power lines, and buildings that obstruct the view. The last time the rain came I started scouting out the highest place I could get to. I decided to see what the top floor of our apartment building offered. I went searching for some kind of balcony, but no luck. Finally I stumbled into the closet with the garbage chute where I saw a hole in the ceiling with an overhanging ladder.

A ladder in a dark room

I pulled it down and climbed into the attic. There I found another ladder that lead to the roof. I pushed the hatch open and at the top I found the place to take the picture I wanted.

Panorama of the Andes range

Then I put everything where I found it and left the garbage chute closet as if it had been untouched.

July 31, 2007

What do you do?

Simple questions can have complicated answers. For me it’s not always easy to answer the question, “What do you do?” In the U.S., where the idea of a post-graduate service program is not quite so unusual, it’s not difficult. I say it’s something like the Peace Corp. with the Catholic church and then give a laundry list of the places I work. Here in Chile being a full-time volunteer is unknown and explaining myself can be tricky.

That said, there’s no worse time for complicated answers than when the police are asking the questions. After I received my latest visa I had to re-register my current details with the police. I went to the central office in Santiago, waited two hours, and finally got to sit down at one of the officers’ workstations. He reviewed my triple-copied pile of paperwork. He asked my name, birthday, address, and then the dreaded question: what are you doing here?

I gave the concise version, “I’m a volunteer with the Catholic church, working in social services.” “Oh. Are you studying at Universidad Catolica?” No. “Are you an exchange student?” No, I already graduated from college. “So what did you receive your degree in?” Philosophy. A pause. “What did you say you do again?” I gave a slightly longer version, with the names of the places I work. Silence.

I sat uncomfortably for five minutes as the officer pecked away at his computer. Finally he printed out my white card and sent me on my way. I was so relieved to be done that I only looked at the card after I had left the building. It read, “ACTIVITY IN CHILE: NONE.” To worsen the blow, the back side told me that I had to inform the police if I ever changed my work. Together with my present status it meant, “Let us know if you start doing anything.”

What do I do? Well, according to the Chilean police, nothing.

July 24, 2007

More English in Chile

Last week I wrote about pervasive English in Chilean Spanish. Here are a few more comical examples.

Peyfon

On the road from my apartment to the parish church there is a payphone. It is labeled “Peyfon,” which is pronounced “payphone” in Spanish.

Zapping = channel surfing

“Zapping” is the name of this newspaper’s TV listings section. The word zapping has been appropriated by Chilean Spanish to mean channel surfing. Hacer zapping = to channel surf.

The Making Off

A program that details the making of something is a “making off.” This page from the same Zapping guide informs the reader that the Making Off of the Heroes series is soon. This isn’t an isolated incident either. A quick Google search shows there are marketing companies that specialize in “making offs” and plenty of “making offs” different movies.

July 18, 2007

Spanish lesson #4361

Gender agreement in Spanish is a giant pain in the butt. We English-speakers mostly ignore gender. A select group of nouns are masculine or feminine—mostly people and animals—and the rest are lumped into the neuter category. In Spanish, all nouns have gender, which is mirrored in the adjectives, articles, and pronouns you use with them. There is a masculine and a feminine version of “the,” which needs to match the gender of the noun. You shouldn’t say el bebida or la teléfono; you need la bebida and el teléfono, respectively for the drink and the telephone. To complicate matters further, some words can take either article (el or la), but with a change in meaning. La papa is the potato, but el papa is the pope. (And you need to get the accents and stress right too, because el papá means father, not pope or potato.)

There are rules to help you remember which words are which, but Spanish is not unlike English in that it is a system based more on exceptions than rules. Take the following set:

  1. Words ending in -a are feminine, e.g. la casa
  2. But words ending in -ma are masculine, e.g. el problema
  3. But some words ending in -ma don’t follow rule two and are feminine, e.g. la palma

People for whom Spanish is a second language still make gender-agreement mistakes even after years of practice. This is exacerbated by the fact that no native speaker makes gender mistakes. Just like all the other aspects of language, gender intuition is written into the mind at a young age. One Chilean offered me a helpful suggestion for telling the difference between masculine and feminine nouns: “The words that sound masculine are masculine, and the ones that sound feminine are feminine.” I told him that wouldn’t work for me and he was flummoxed.

There are some benefits to the Spanish gendered system, however. It’s easier to remember related words because you just need to switch the ending from masculine to feminine or vice-versa. In English knowing “brother,” isn’t going to help you remember the word “sister.” In Spanish, knowing hermano is just one letter away from knowing hermana. Plus you get more information from a single word. If someone talks about his cat in English, you don’t know whether it’s male or female without more information. But someone talking about her gato has already told you that the cat is male because she used the masculine verb ending.

Trying to remember all these gender rules while composing sentences on-the-fly isn’t easy. Non-native speakers are often just not used to thinking about the gender of the objects they are talking about, so it throws a wrench in the mental machinery. I try, but I still fail occasionally, although never with such disastrous consequences as last week.

Ramón and I work together in Br. Donald’s kitchen. Last Thursday we were talking about how we finally got the elderly women who work with us to use our system for storing dishes. Often we arrive to find thermos #1 connected to #23, #5 with #19, and so on, all mixed up. Thursday everything was just as it should be, #1 with #2, all the way down the line. “Well,” I said in one of my typical there’s-no-need-to-say-anything-but-I’ll-just-talk-anyway comments, “it looks like we taught those old dogs a new trick, huh?” Since I was talking about women, I thought I’d swap the word ending on “dogs” to make it feminine. The result? Looks like we taught those old bitches a new trick, huh?

Ramón laughed. I went into an interior monologue. “Do you always have to say something? Couldn’t we have left well enough alone?” I guess not. Stupid gender.

July 16, 2007

Hey! Get your own words

Cambia tu look en Buenos Aires
An ad suggests you change your “look” in Buenos Aires.

In 20 years, I swear Chile will be speaking English. To be honest, I’m not sure that they have that far to go. Already people amend their requests with please and excuse themselves with sorry. You go shopping with your gay friend if you want to buy some new blue jeans or shorts to change your look (perhaps to be more sexy?). If you need some tape, either scotch or masking, you can get it at Easy or Homecenter, the two home improvement stores. When you go out to dinner your restaurant may have a happy hour when you can buy a cheap pitcher.

This is just scraping the surface. In the business realm, the Anglo-infiltration is even more profound. After some feedback about the new outsourcing proposal—no one within the company has the know-how—you take a coffee break. There you snack on sandwiches, sip light soda, and talk about Chile’s economic boom. Back at the computer, you send a mail to your boss. On the Internet you click with your mouse. You save your files to your disk, or a pendrive, or a CD, or even a DVD if you upgrade your software and hardware.

Coffee Break sweetener
A package of Coffee Break sweetener, named for the coffee breaks that Chileans take at work.

Are you still with me? Once on my way home from work I bought the Friday paper which includes the magazine Wikén. That’s not a witchcraft publication—which would be Wicca—but the Spanish rendering of “weekend.” On the subway one day I bumped into another passenger. I excused myself, and to my relief he told me it was, “No problem.” Another occasion I overheard one high schooler explaining her woes to a companion, “Money, money, money! No tengo money!” It’s a bit overwhelming, isn’t it?

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July 13, 2007

Alcohol in South America

In the U.S. would you ever see a 12-year-old buy a bottle of wine for his mother at the corner store? How about this drive-thru liquor store in Bolivia? Note that this drive-thru is not merely drive-up, like many so-called “drive-thrus” in America; you actually drive through the store.

Drive-thru liquor store in Bolivia

What about a wine tasting in your local Walmart? This one is at the Lider down the block from our apartment.

Wine tasting in Lider supermarket

These were a few sights that called my attention here. They made me think, “You’d never see this in the States.” Then again, you have to realize, I’m from Utah.

July 10, 2007

QVC on the go

When you get on a bus in Chile, you’re not just going for a ride; you’re going shopping. Roaming vendors board and exit buses at every corner offering their wares. Last week I was riding the 505 when a man stood up front and made his pitch:

A very good afternoon, ladies and gentlemen. Pardon the interruption. Today we are offering a special on rulers in assorted colors that have your children’s favorite cartoon characters on the back. You may ask what could be so special about a normal ruler. These are no ordinary rulers, but rulers that are also bracelets. Just slap it on your wrist and carry it with you. You might ordinarily expect to pay 300 or 400 pesos for a ruler like this, but today we are offering them for just 100 pesos [$0.20].

Perhaps you are thinking, “Who would buy crap like that?” If so, then you haven’t been to Chile because the answer is everyone. The ruler man sold five or six in the 30 seconds between his pitch and getting off at the next street corner. If you get on a bus and sell it, the people will buy it. On the other hand, if you’re thinking, “Hey, where can I get one of those?” then catch the next plane to Santiago because that’s not all they’ve got.

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July 4, 2007

Lose something?

When you lose things, it can be frustrating. Doubly so when people ask you, “Well, where did you last see it?” Presumably that’s the first place I would look. If the lost something happens to be important, the experience can be embarrassing as well. Like when NASA announced last year that it had lost the tapes with the first video of man walking on the moon. Wonder where they last saw it.

In any event, NASA can relinquish the most-stunning-loss title for now; moon-walk video tapes aren’t the only thing missing. According to a recent BBC article, Chile has gone and lost a lake. It was there in January, but when scientists returned for a checkup in May, the lake was gone. The work of master thief Carmen Sandiego? Initial speculation was only slightly less dramatic: some scientists posited that an earthquake had opened a fissure in the lake floor, draining all the water away. The latest report, which came out today, blames global warming. The ice wall that dammed the lake’s water succumbed to pressure from melting glaciers, opening an exit to the sea.

Disappearing Chilean Lake
Photo by Associated Press

There’s some perspective for you the next time you misplace a pen.

Tip courtesy of Jon Lesser.

June 26, 2007

The most depicted man in Chile

There are thousands of photographs of Jorge Cornejo throughout Santiago. He is the head of customer relations for the Santiago Metro, and he appears everywhere to remind riders to let others off before boarding, among other suggestions. There are so many pictures of the man on the subway that I occasionally envision him as a kind of transit Big Brother, monitoring my every move. Jorge, however, is not the most depicted man in Chile. That distinction, I believe, belongs to Miguel.

I can’t tell you very much about Miguel. This is all I know about him: He has little hair; his beard and the hair that remains are white; he smoked for 20 years, and he lost his larynx to cancer. This last detail is the reason for his fame. Miguel appears on packs of cigarette in Chile as part of the Ministry of Health’s warning label. The front label reads, “Warning: These cigarettes ARE KILLING YOU.” The back is Miguel’s photo and a brief description.

These cigarettes are killing you

Unlike the U.S., where cigarette manufacturers choose from a selection of alarming surgeon general’s statements, there’s just one option here: Miguel. I see dozens of him staring at me from every convenience store, shop, or kiosk that sells cigarettes. His photo litters the ground wherever people have discarded their empty packs. It goes to show that there’s more than one route to fame.

June 10, 2007

Check out these carrots

Last year Tom and I spent some time dreaming up slogans for the country of Chile that poked fun at some of the quirks we had noticed in our time here. Chile: Changing Spanish to English, one word at a time; Chile: Our national dish is salt; Chile: Still inventing new ways of wearing the fanny pack. These refer respectively to the omnipresence of English words in Chilean Spanish, the amount of salt Chileans use to season food, and the fact that fanny packs are the cat’s meow here for men and women. Hey, Chile, the 80s called—they want their fashion back.

Anyway, another fave of mine that Tom came up with was “Chile: Our carrots dwarf yours.” Don’t believe me? Check this out:

Giant carrot

This size is pretty typical. If I were a detective investigating murders in Chile, I’d probably add these to the list of potential weapons. Mr. Plum in the kitchen with the giant carrot….

June 6, 2007

The politics of being "American"

A different language and a different culture can make even the simplest of things difficult. In Chile saying where you’re from isn’t a simple matter. In English, I’m American. In Spanish, saying soy americano is as likely as not to upset someone. The reason is that people in South America learn that the Americas are a single continent and all those who inhabit it are Americans. When you tell someone that you’re americano, often you’ll get a sardonic, “Yeah? Me too,” in reply, followed by a remark that people from the U.S. always forget that the rest of the continent even exists.

The next option is what is taught in most U.S. Spanish classes, soy estadounidense, literally, “I’m United Statesian.” I often opt for this adjective, but it’s not problem-free either. Mexico is formally the United Mexican States, so the possibility for confusion exists, although it’s uncommon.

At least in Chile, though, you don’t hear estadounidense much. Instead people say norteamericano, North American. They tell me I’m North American, ask me if I have visited North America, compliment my North American jacket, and rant about the latest decision of the North American government. When people begin the americano argument with me, I point out the parallel inaccuracy from our point of view of talking about Mexico, Canada, and the U.S. as if they were a single country. The typical reaction has been, “You say Mexico’s part of ‘North America’?” Turns out our atlases are different too.

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June 3, 2007

Winter's first snow

The Fourth of July is right around the corner in the U.S., along with the warm weather that usually accompanies it, but here in Chile we’re gearing up for winter. That means that, instead of complaining about the heat, they now complain about the cold. I am trying to fit into the culture here so I complain about the cold too. You know, just to fit in.

Last Thursday was the first big rain of the season, which meant the Andes’s first visible snowfall of the year. The mountains are notably taller than the Rockies back home, and cold nonwithstanding, are beautiful. Try to ignore the powerlines and traffic.

Snowfall on Andes mountains

On a side note, can you guess which direction is the rush hour traffic?

May 26, 2007

Take a seat

Crowds waiting to board subway train
Hoards of people wait to board the subway at Vicente Valdes, the first station on the green line of the Santiago subway. Imagine what it’s like at the subsequent stations.

Have you ever seen six-year-olds play soccer? If so, then you have some idea of what Chilean lines can look like. If not, I’ll describe both simultaneously: people clumped together in groups, running around, trying to get something with little regard for planning, and crammed together on the same physical point in a way that defies certain laws of physics. When it comes to complaining about line chaos in Chile, been there, done that. The subway in Santiago, however, has lifted the hilarity of lines to a new level.

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May 24, 2007

Pirates in Chile

Today is the world premiere of Pirates of the Caribbean 3 and as our community event for the week we’re going to see it. Check out these posters from all the Santiago subway stations:

Jack Sparrow on Pirates 3 poster Will on Pirates 3 poster
Davy Jones on Pirates 3 poster Chow Yun-Fat on Pirates 3 poster

Note the title in Spanish: Piratas del Caribe: En el Fin del Mundo. There are easily several dozen advertisements throughout the subway system. Makes you realize how expensive a publicity campaign can be to promote a major film release. On a side note, the director’s name, Gore Verbinski, is on my list of best names ever, alongside Rip Torn.

May 14, 2007

Triple window at the Casa Royale

I wrote before about Chile’s beloved triple-window system in stores. In a nutshell it’s this: you pick something out here, you pay for it there, and you pick it up over there. This applies to everything; I once made the triple-window circuit to buy $0.45 worth of nails. But I had only experienced my slow-lane, countryside version of the triple window. Last week I got a taste of the big-city version when I did some electronics shopping in downtown Santiago.

I don’t do much electronics shopping here in Santiago, partly because I don’t need anything, but mostly because I barely make enough each month to buy a blank CD-R. This time wasn’t for me. One of the Holy Cross sisters here asked me to buy a few things for her: a wireless router, an extension cord, and a TV antenna. I made my way to her recommended locale, Casa Royale, which despite a passing resemblance to Casino Royale, shares nothing with the glitzy Bond flick.

At Casa Royale, I picked out a wireless router. The salesperson printed out my receipt and directed me across the store to the second window. I snaked through the crowd, eventually making my way to a line in the back where I exchanged money for a stamp on my receipt that said “PAID.” Then I joined a herd of customers at a third location awaiting the delivery of their purchases.

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May 9, 2007

My first day at Contigo

I began work this week with an NGO called Fundación Contigo. Contigo, which means “with you” in Spanish, is an organization that works with microcredit and job training to improve people’s quality of life. Microcredit as a formal system is a relatively new development, and it has become more well known in the last several years. In fact last year’s Nobel Peace Prize winner was Muhammad Yunus from Bangladesh, who won the prize for his application of microcredit in his country.

The concept of microcredit is essentially to loan small sums of money to entrepreneurial individuals or groups who could otherwise not receive loans from banks. These loans allow people to engage in self-employment and run small businesses. It has been especially helpful in developing countries where, for example, lack of $100 in supplies prevents an individual from entering the market. With startup help through microcredit loans, people who couldn’t participate in the economy can.

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April 27, 2007

Turn, turn, turn

Leaf on shirt
A fallen leaf lies on my shirt in the laundry bucket.

I knew it was undeniably fall in Chile when leaves kept dropping into my laundry. While I washed my clothes outside last week, yellow leaves landed in the sink, rinse bucket, and spinner. As timing would have it, that was my last time washing my clothes at that house. The seasons are changing, and so is my program. On Monday we moved everything from my home to an apartment in Santiago, ending a decade of volunteers living in that house.

Our program is in a state of closing, albeit a slow one. Last July the governing body of the Congregation of Holy Cross decided to re-evaluate the vision and purpose of the Associate program. While that process happens, the current Associate program, both in Chile and the U.S., is closing. Whether it will be born again in a different incarnation remains an open question for the future. For the present, as part of this transition, it fell to my roommates and me to close our house in Pocuro.

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April 16, 2007

Spanish lesson #3989

When I speak Spanish my train of thought often passes by a lingering preoccupation that hovers in the front of my mind: try to sound smarter than a second grader. It’s not a grandiose goal for a college-educated individual, but it is a realistic one, and these days there is something to be said for unadorned realism. Realistic or not, however, it is not always easy to achieve. A single slip of the tongue, one misplaced letter, and you are back in Dumbsville. It is exactly this fear that paralyzes many language learners, so I recommend that you ignore it. Besides, if you don’t keep talking, you won’t end up with comedies of errors like these.

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April 4, 2007

Old friends on a new continent

Percival and Kate overlooking Santiago
Kate and Percival overlook downtown Santiago from atop Cerro Santa Lucia.

Two weeks ago I didn’t write anything online because there was simply no time to do it. I was busy catching up with Percival and Kate, two friends from college who I hadn’t seen (like most of my friends!) since graduation day. Their visit almost didn’t happen—the East Coast blizzard that hit on March 16 canceled their flight for two days, then their rescheduled flight barely got them to their connection in Miami. When they did arrive, we had to make up for lost time by squeezing as much as possible into seven days.

After they landed, we wasted no time with resting or eating. We went on a walking tour of Santiago, from the main Alemeda to the Plaza de Armas and Mercado Central. I also made them climb Santa Lucia, the park on a hill in the middle of downtown. I got away with these things mostly because we hadn’t seen one another in almost two years, but also because Kate is into intense vacations too. We drag Percival along with us.

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April 2, 2007

Run like the wind

Marathon runners
Runners in the Santiago Marathon at the 5km marker.

Caitlin ran the Santiago half marathon yesterday, so we turned out to cheer for her. I don’t know much about being a marathon spectator, but Emily is a seasoned pro (OK, semi-pro, she’s cheered at the Chicago Marathon) so she and I teamed up and hit the course at 8:00am. We mapped the different race points on a map of the city buses and subway to select three different points where we could meet up with the runners.

As it turns out, marathons aren’t extremely popular in South America. Although there were many Chileans running, many of the participants were foreigners. My guess is that local reasoning goes something like this: “Run 26 miles? Sure! Wait—you’re saying there’s no soccer ball? Are you crazy? Count me out.” Even less popular is marathon spectating. Emily and I jumped the 305 city bus and saw Caitlin pass at the four-mile marker. It wasn’t hard for her to pick us out, though. Apart from the silent runners, we were the only people in sight. Not a single other individual was watching early in the course.

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March 10, 2007

Ice cream summer

Ice cream at Loca Luna
The selection at a local ice cream joint, Loca Luna.

This is the third in a series of articles on Chilean culture.

When the Chilean summer sun shines on you, if you pay attention, you can actually feel your skin burning. It’s not just the heat, but the sheer intensity. Temperatures are generally in the 80s and 90s, but it feels like each photon carries its own personal flame thrower to torch your body. Perhaps it has something to do with the UV radiation. Every day the newspaper reports the UV Index on an 11-point scale. Santiago is always at “9-10 Very Dangerous” or “11 Extremely Dangerous.”

The heat is exacerbated by the absence of any cooling. I don’t know of a house around me that has air conditioning. Many people don’t bother with fans either. Why push around the hot air? I suspect they’d say. Adobe houses help the matter, but you can only ask so much of your dirt walls. By mid-afternoon the heat has penetrated the house and left even the houseflies in a lethargic daze. This is the reason that the entire country migrates 80 miles west during the summer months. People abandon the city and countryside for their sliver of beach along Chile’s 3000-mile coastline.

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March 7, 2007

A book is born

Gina and Paulina with new book
Gina and Paulina, two women from Pocuro, with the newly published book. Gina was one of the community interviewers who worked on the project.

I went to my first book launch last Friday in a somewhat unexpected location. In Pocuro, the town where I live, there are about 1,000 people. It is part of Calle Larga, home to 10,000, and 15 minutes from Los Andes, which has 50,000. Given those options, the party was held in Pocuro, in the shade behind a large, decaying adobe house. In attendance were the mayor of Calle Larga and a handful of government officials. The selected location makes more sense once you know the title of the book: An Oral History of Pocuro.

Pocuro, despite its small size, has spent its fair share of time in the spotlight. Gabriela Mistral, Chile first Nobel prize-winning poet wrote about the town and its people in her verses. Pedro Aguirre Cerda, president of Chile from 1938 to 1941, was born in Pocuro and spent his childhood there. The dilapidated adobe house where we gathered was, in fact, his one-time home. The stone chapel in Pocuro was built in 1945 and remains one of the most attractive in the area. Many people choose Pocuro’s chapel from the 11 in the parish for weddings and funerals. Since I live next to the chapel, I hear all the services and can attest to its continued popularity.

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February 10, 2007

Torres del Paine coming soon...

Amanda and I made it back from Torres del Paine National Park alive. It was incredible. We hiked for about 5 days in the park, during which time we took around 700 photos. I was limited primarily by the number of batteries that I brought. I don’t think that a couple paragraph write-up with a few pictures would do the experience justice, so I’m preparing a series of articles to recount the trip day-by-day. I’m culling through my journal to cut out the boring parts and revising to add a better narrative and incorporate some thoughts from the trail. I expect to begin posting this upcoming week. In the meantime, you can take the unguided tour of a select batch of the photos on Flickr.

January 31, 2007

It's the end of the world as I know it

It’s time to add another superlative achievement to my list: this morning Amanda and I landed in Punta Arenas, the southernmost city in the world (though as Wikipedia indicates, that depends somewhat on your definition of city). Since our flight arrived at the early-bird-special time of 3:15am, we slept on the airport floor for a few hours before taking a taxi into the city. We hopped onto the 8:00 bus to Puerto Natales, a city about three-and-a-half hours north. Our first comic traveling moment of the trip came about 20 minutes later, when our bus made a pass by the airport to pick up passengers there. Why the gentleman I spoke with on the phone yesterday said nothing of an airport pickup escapes me, but we chalked it up to experience.

At 8:17am it started raining, which is sure to be the first of many times this week—Torres del Paine is somewhat famous for its sudden changes-of-heart when it comes to the weather. The road to Puerto Natales was impressive. It was covered with what looked like arthritic trees, warped and bent to the whims of the wind over time. Some of the trees were draped with an almost phosphorescent green moss. These forests would be an excellent place to shoot a suspense film.

Upon arriving in Puerto Natales we booked our next bus to Torres del Paine, rented our stove, bought some last-minute food items, and ate lunch. At 2:30pm we hit the road again, and from that point it’s us and the trail until we come back on February 5. There’s no updates from here on out, but if you want you can look up information about the park and imagine us doing the W-trek over the next several days. See you on the flip side!

January 30, 2007

Off to Patagonia!

The past week was a blur with all the activities for CEVA, the children’s summer camp that I directed. So much so, in fact, that I don’t have any thing written to post, or any time to upload photos. Shocking, I know. The upshot of all that activity is that I didn’t have any time to wait anxiously as I usually do when visitors come to town. Instead I finished with our week of camp and went to the airport the next morning to pick up my friend Amanda. Despite some flight issues (there always seems to be something when people come here), she arrived intact and with all the supplies for our backpacking trip in Patagonia. As I waited in the airport, I saw the tourism banners that are posted throughout the building and I took it as a sign (and not just literally):

Torres del Paine banner

We’re headed to Torres del Paine National Park, one of the natural wonders of Chile, tonight at midnight, so the sign seemed appropriate. Until we get back, I’ll most likely be off the radar. In the meantime, take out your map and look for the southernmost city in the world—Punta Arenas—and that’s where Amanda and I will be.

January 20, 2007

Layover in Castro

When we went to Chiloé on our January missions trip we stopped for a few hours in Castro, the capital of the island. Chiloé is known for many things, and although we were only in Castro for a couple hours, we were able to see many of them. I was in Castro for two hours, but here you can see it in six photos.

The wooden churches in Chiloé are magnificent and numerous. They were built by Spanish conquistadors and Jesuit missions throughout the island. Today they are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The cathedral in Castro is a prime example of these wooden churches. It’s nice looking from the outside, but the wood work inside is stunning.

Cathedral in Castro, Chiloe
Castro cathedral interior

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January 17, 2007

Missions in Chi